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Old March 16th, 2013 #25
L. Edwards
Migrant White worker
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: looking for next job in the Kwa
Posts: 592
Default Guidlines on Reloading Pick Up Cases

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr A.Anderson View Post

I've never reloaded a pistol round, and used to always work with my own (fired) brass and shells.

I'm looking into equipment right now, books, manuals, etc.

Does anybody have anything they recommend?
To start just pick a good brand smokeless power you like and use the loads and components approved by the manufacturer. I use Hodgdon Tite Group for pistol.

I like to use pick up ammo at the firing ranges for reloading because, well it’s free and I pickup anything bright and shiny like a packrat. I have a bunch of new cases but I’m saving them. Practice with the reloads not new ammo. There are lots of things to consider when you reload. Once fired brass is pretty cheap and going to be safer than using pickup brass naturally, but as long as you follow these general guidelines you should be OK.


If I forgot anything feel free to add to the list below.

• Be aware that military brass primers are crimped so the primer needs to be taking out by a hand tool made for such. Don’t put them in your press to squeeze out because it will bend the primer removing pin sometimes.
• Don’t try to reload aluminum or steel shells.Don’t reload to high power levels on pick-up. Use reasonable power levels (no +P reloads!).
• Cases get dented by being stepped on, or hitting the extractor or by hitting the ground so the question is how bad is too bad? . Generally that is something you learn from experience. Hard to tell you. But, as a general rule, if it's a rounded dent, and it irons out easily it’s OK. If the dent is more of a crease - if it has a sharp edge in it anywhere - that is asking for a case-failure so scrap it. Dents in the mouth of the case are not as bad as in the body. Check the case before and AFTER sizing. Sometimes a body dent that doesn't look bad, will, during sizing, get worse. So small dents OK, big dents in body is bad.
• Any type of tear or split in the mouth is real bad so scrap it. Slight scrapes on the mouth are OK just touch up with a small file.
• Small notches on the base rim from the extractor are OK if not too deep.
• Be aware of any bulging of case. If you see the case bulging like a wooden barrel toss it in the scrap. This case has been over pressurized. Also, if you look on the base of the shell, the headstamp and see the letters are flattened out that means it has been overpressurized so toss it.
• Beware of Glock fired cases. The firing pin mark is unmistakable. Not a simple dimple on the primer. Kind of a rectangular mark w/ a dimple. Glocks have a extra large chamber. The brass will have a bulge, not always noticeable by eye. You can have feeding problems w/ this brass if not roll sized or prepped w/ a U die or push thru resizer die.
• I recommend tossing all brass head stamped AMERC, ACP and AP brass into the recycling bin. These brands are poor quality and nothing but trouble -never reload right. Same thing for G.F.L brass also. Toss it. Cheap Fiocchi brass sometimes won’t fit through my .45 resizer.
• Put all reloaded rounds through a case size checker after loading to make sure it won’t jam up when you are firing! Also know your AOL for your bullet (Average overall length of your bullet from headstamp to bullet tip and be sure to check each it during and after reloading so a good quality caliper is a must.
• Any type of pitting on the shell is corrosion and dangerous. You can feel it generally with your finger nail. Pitting is usually two toned: a circle of green surrounded by a ring of brown. A solid discoloration like a darker brown is different and OK as long is it not pitted !!
• Use only data loads approved by the powder manufacturer and only the components combinations approved for your specific tested load. Don’t use any substitutes that are not approved.
• I use a Dillion 550B and after de-priming, I examine the prime-hole. If it's enlarged, I toss the case