Ammunition Reloading Thread

[Mr A.Anderson]

Just purchased:

600 Speer Gold Dot 124 gr JHP 9mm, 200 Winchester 115 gr FMJ 9mm, 500 CCI small rifle primers (CCI is soft enough to use in place of small pistol primers), Butler Creek 25 round (steel lip) magazine for the Ruger 10/22. This adds to my supply stash as it is, but was very excited about finding 9mm bullets! Have had an extremely hard time finding any, let alone quality. He was willing to sell me all he had (Gold Dot 124 gr), so I bought every single one of them.

$290 cash for everything pictured.



Going back on Saturday for .308 loading supplies (Hornady 150 gr SST for $30 per 100 ct), .308 Win brass, case lube, reloading blocks, and some more powder.

[Mr A.Anderson]

Speer Gold Dot 9mm +P 124 gr JHP SIM-TEST w/denim - YouTube

Speer Gold Dot 9mm +P 124 gr JHP SIM-TEST w/denim - YouTube

[Mr A.Anderson]

Just picked up one of these for a song and a dance at a garage sale. I don't think the lady knew what it really was, and damned sure didn't know what it's worth.

It's one of the Mec Jr's......I just don't know if it is pre '82 or an '82-85 model.



Going on a supply run tomorrow, and begin getting my loading bench ready.

[L. Edwards]

Originally Posted by N.B. Forrest

This "rolling your own" is a good idea: I was in Walmart yesterday, and the shelves were almost completely bare of ammo. Feinschtein's big push and the goddamn feds buying up hundreds of millions of rounds is effectively doing the job of making the Second Amendment just some meaningless words from Dead White Male Racists.

Speaking about rolling your own, you literally can roll super duper quality high performance shotgun shells without a MEC Reload for these buckshot loads. I’m not trying to push this website or am I anyway connected to it, but as you know buckshot loads are damn expensive ranging from $1.20 per shell ! I like the Fiocchi clear hulls because you can easily see how many pellets you have and what size they are plus you can also look at the average height of the powder charge to make sure you didn’t screw up. Also I like to use the clear plastic overshot card. Use the Fiocchi hulls listed on this website.

They have been in business for a long time and the loads come with a load number so all the loads are safe and pressure and velocity tested. The only tools you need to buy are the roll crimping tool item number ROLL12 for $27 (It was a damn lot cheaper a couple of years back) and the Hull vise for 12 gauge for $46. Actually you can easily copy the design of the Hull Vise and make it out of wood for nothing. I haven’t looked but you might be able to buy a similar clamp and put it on yourself or you can make some sort of screw clamp yourself. The whole idea is to keep the hull from spinning when you use an electric drill to spin the ROLL12 roll crimper.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Ori...ctinfo/ROLL12/

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Hul...ductinfo/VISE/

The best thing about the design of the Hull Vise is it works equally well for standard 2&3/4 shell and up like the 3 inch tall hulls. Learning how to crimp properly take just a little practice. Use some plastic pickup shotshell hulls you find at the range to experiment. After the roll crimp spins around and heats up the plastic you’ll know when to push steadily and slowly down to roll the crimp. There’s a certain feel to it when it’s soft enough to push down.
I got these all these buckshot loads from Ballistic Products Loading Manual III. This particular load is load data number 920601. Here’s breakdown of the components. The manual explicitly forbids exchanging any component that is not approved so don’t do it if you want to be safe.

Load Data number 920601:
• Brush Wad 12 (BW12)
• 9 ea 00 Hornady buckshot (1.11 OZ) DIA appox .334
• Fiocchi clear 12 gauge 2&3/4 shot shell ( use 16mm brass) with Fio616 primer
• 1 ea clear .03 thick Overshot Card
• 1ea teflon wrap (trim the Teflon wrap to.98 inch heigh) It fits end to end with no overlap inside the hull to hold keep the pellets from rubbing on the side (faster velocity). Also the Teflon should rest directly on the top of the BW12
• 20 grains Nitro 100 powder
• 1/8 in cork filler + 1/16 in cork filler(shaved 1/8 inch filler)
• Leave a .25 gap between top of overshot and top of new shot shell hull. This is part of the hull you spin down to form the roll crimp.
• Finished Height of shotshell is approximately 2.5 in
• Note: this load stacks very geometrically. There are 3 pellets in a row (same level) and 3 columns of 9 pellets. There is only one way to stack them so it’s very simple and stable and the same each time.

This Manual is fun and interesting but it requires some study to figure out which load data number that will work with a specific shot size. The author gives all the information you need to get the job done like the general principles about stacking columns and rows and which shot sizes fit perfectly without any randomness. But because of large number of combinations between the listed hull and the shot size he only lists the shot weight in ounces and not which shot size to use (generally) . It’s up to you to figure out with size shot and hulls fit perfectly. A shot shell doesn’t care if the load is one ounce of BB size or number 7 size as long as fits within the hull properly. Some combinations that weigh the same don’t fit into the listed hull.

[L. Edwards]

Originally Posted by Mr A.Anderson

I've never reloaded a pistol round, and used to always work with my own (fired) brass and shells.

I'm looking into equipment right now, books, manuals, etc.

Does anybody have anything they recommend?

To start just pick a good brand smokeless power you like and use the loads and components approved by the manufacturer. I use Hodgdon Tite Group for pistol.

I like to use pick up ammo at the firing ranges for reloading because, well it’s free and I pickup anything bright and shiny like a packrat. I have a bunch of new cases but I’m saving them. Practice with the reloads not new ammo. There are lots of things to consider when you reload. Once fired brass is pretty cheap and going to be safer than using pickup brass naturally, but as long as you follow these general guidelines you should be OK.


If I forgot anything feel free to add to the list below.

• Be aware that military brass primers are crimped so the primer needs to be taking out by a hand tool made for such. Don’t put them in your press to squeeze out because it will bend the primer removing pin sometimes.
• Don’t try to reload aluminum or steel shells.Don’t reload to high power levels on pick-up. Use reasonable power levels (no +P reloads!).
• Cases get dented by being stepped on, or hitting the extractor or by hitting the ground so the question is how bad is too bad? . Generally that is something you learn from experience. Hard to tell you. But, as a general rule, if it's a rounded dent, and it irons out easily it’s OK. If the dent is more of a crease - if it has a sharp edge in it anywhere - that is asking for a case-failure so scrap it. Dents in the mouth of the case are not as bad as in the body. Check the case before and AFTER sizing. Sometimes a body dent that doesn't look bad, will, during sizing, get worse. So small dents OK, big dents in body is bad.
• Any type of tear or split in the mouth is real bad so scrap it. Slight scrapes on the mouth are OK just touch up with a small file.
• Small notches on the base rim from the extractor are OK if not too deep.
• Be aware of any bulging of case. If you see the case bulging like a wooden barrel toss it in the scrap. This case has been over pressurized. Also, if you look on the base of the shell, the headstamp and see the letters are flattened out that means it has been overpressurized so toss it.
• Beware of Glock fired cases. The firing pin mark is unmistakable. Not a simple dimple on the primer. Kind of a rectangular mark w/ a dimple. Glocks have a extra large chamber. The brass will have a bulge, not always noticeable by eye. You can have feeding problems w/ this brass if not roll sized or prepped w/ a U die or push thru resizer die.
• I recommend tossing all brass head stamped AMERC, ACP and AP brass into the recycling bin. These brands are poor quality and nothing but trouble -never reload right. Same thing for G.F.L brass also. Toss it. Cheap Fiocchi brass sometimes won’t fit through my .45 resizer.
• Put all reloaded rounds through a case size checker after loading to make sure it won’t jam up when you are firing! Also know your AOL for your bullet (Average overall length of your bullet from headstamp to bullet tip and be sure to check each it during and after reloading so a good quality caliper is a must.
• Any type of pitting on the shell is corrosion and dangerous. You can feel it generally with your finger nail. Pitting is usually two toned: a circle of green surrounded by a ring of brown. A solid discoloration like a darker brown is different and OK as long is it not pitted !!
• Use only data loads approved by the powder manufacturer and only the components combinations approved for your specific tested load. Don’t use any substitutes that are not approved.
• I use a Dillion 550B and after de-priming, I examine the prime-hole. If it's enlarged, I toss the case

[Mr A.Anderson]

Got my loading bench set up today. Tumbling brass as we speak.

[Mr A.Anderson]

I ordered some custom made reloading blocks from a member here, who happens to be an excellent craftsman.

He is making me 4 different blocks, 2 for the 9mm, and 2 for the .308 Win, both 50 and 100 round capacity.

He started on this one this morning, and it was just a scrap of wood. This is only about half way done, 100 count .308 Win block. It measures 19 1/2"x4".

I can't wait to see it finished!

[Mr A.Anderson]

I started a new thread on the actual step by step process.

http://vnnforum.com/showthread.php?t=153016

[Simmon]

Here is one that I finished. A little more basic than the one above.

[Simmon]

Originally Posted by Simmon

Here is one that I finished. A little more basic than the one above.

I made this from wood from the beams in this picture. All of this wood was reclaimed from a cotton mill in Mississippi. I had a little left over. Guaranteed to have nigger sweat(and possibly blood) in it.

This is the actual job I did.


All of the floor planks and most of the beams were heart pine but there were a few of the beams that were different. I have speculation of what the wood is but not sure.

[keifer]

Originally Posted by Simmon

Here is one that I finished. A little more basic than the one above.

That's what I would call high quality furniture. I would hang that on my wall.

[keifer]

Originally Posted by Simmon

I made this from wood from the beams in this picture. All of this wood was reclaimed from a cotton mill in Mississippi. I had a little left over. Guaranteed to have nigger sweat(and possibly blood) in it.

This is the actual job I did.


All of the floor planks and most of the beams were heart pine but there were a few of the beams that were different. I have speculation of what the wood is but not sure.

I tried pattern-making. I was a hack and relied heavily on wax to fill and account for tolerances. I bet your garage smells great,..like a wood shop.
There is a fine line between expression and power tools, I am lucky to still have all 20 didgets.

[Mr A.Anderson]

Originally Posted by keifer

That's what I would call high quality furniture. I would hang that on my wall.

I'm putting them on my reloading bench!

I'm just trying to figure out how many 8mm rounds it will cost me.

[Simmon]

Originally Posted by keifer

I tried pattern-making. I was a hack and relied heavily on wax to fill and account for tolerances. I bet your garage smells great,..like a wood shop.
There is a fine line between expression and power tools, I am lucky to still have all 20 didgets.

Ya know when I was younger I almost lost two of my digits to a shaper.

[Simmon]

Originally Posted by Mr A.Anderson

I'm putting them on my reloading bench!

I'm just trying to figure out how many 8mm rounds it will cost me.

buddy, I would almost do it for free. For you. ALMOST!

[Mr A.Anderson]

Originally Posted by Simmon

buddy, I would almost do it for free. For you. ALMOST!

Yeah, well, I have a feeling there's going to be a run on my local shop for 8mm ammo tomorrow.

[Simmon]

Originally Posted by Mr A.Anderson

Yeah, well, I have a feeling there's going to be a run on my local shop for 8mm ammo tomorrow.

lol, well, a few boxes I couldn't argue with.

[Mr A.Anderson]

Originally Posted by Simmon

lol, well, a few boxes I couldn't argue with.

A few wouldn't put a dent in it.

[Simmon]

Well Mr A. Anderson, here is the finished 308-100 count block.
Red mahogany stain on red oak wood. Roman double O gee edge above a 1/8 sunken quarter round edge.

[Angel Ramsey]

He's out shooting. Wow, beautiful work, brother. Wow.