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Old December 19th, 2010 #1
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Default Montenegro’s spotless beaches and wild wolves: Corner of Europe untamed by tourism

Montenegro’s spotless beaches and wild wolves: Corner of Europe untamed by tourism

By David Rose

Last updated at 2:08 PM on 19th December 2010


Its fur was white with a streak of grey and it sat magnificently by the roadside, staring into the distance. We had no doubt what it was. On a lonely route high in the Durmitor mountains of Montenegro, we had just encountered our first full-grown wolf. We stopped and fumbled for our cameras, but by the time we were ready it had ambled into the undergrowth.
Somehow, it didn’t seem so surprising. Having gained its independence from Serbia as recently as 2006, Montenegro can often feel untamed, its tourism far less developed than it is, for example, in neighbouring Croatia.



Off the tourist trail: A castle overlooking Kotor Bay in the newly independent Montenegro


Along the exquisite Adriatic coast, a 200-mile sweep of azure water, plunging cliffs and gorgeous Venetian architecture, there are restaurants and small boutique resorts the equal of any throughout the Mediterranean.
But not everywhere: even by the seaside, there are long stretches which are still undeveloped, and many food stores there carry an unexpectedly restricted range of produce.
As for the interior, a dizzying assembly of lakes, mountains and precipitous limestone canyons, it is truly wild and often empty, with few tourist facilities at all.
Meanwhile, anyone contemplating a holiday in Montenegro needs to know that driving on its narrow, winding, single-carriageway roads requires care.
Unprotected drops of hundreds of feet are common, as are bus and taxi drivers who seem to think that driving on the wrong side of the road when negotiating a tight blind bend is acceptable. On the other hand, to see the country properly, driving is pretty much the only feasible way for a family to get around. Just make sure you have strong nerves and good insurance



Untamed: Wolves roam the Durrmitor mountains

Having flown to Dubrovnik in Croatia and picked up a rental car, my wife Carolyn, our sons Jacob, 11, Daniel, six, and I drove across the border and spent two-and-a-half weeks in Montenegro last August.
The package holiday industry here is in its infancy, and apart from just one big resort, Budva, much of which resembles a garish Adriatic Blackpool, there are relatively few hotels. However, we found a good selection of self-catering accommodation on the internet and, determined to experience as much of the country as possible, we divided our holiday between two spacious and well-appointed apartments. Neither cost us more than £550 a week, and both came equipped with stunning panoramas and large shared pools.
In the sea, the water was always crystalline, and the beaches spotless. Moreover, the weather was perfect the whole time, with cloudless days and maximum temperatures in the low 30s. But there is much more to Montenegro than buckets and spades and snorkelling.
We spent our first week at Muo, a village deep inside the Montenegrin coast’s jewel – the Gulf of Kotor, a 15-mile-long fjord with white limestone walls that at their loftiest, beneath the summit of Mount Lovocen, are almost 6,000ft high. Kotor itself, at the far end, is a small walled city, an ancient stone Venetian-Gothic labyrinth of shady alleys and sunny piazzas, most with pavement bars and restaurants.
Their Italian-style ice cream is as good as it gets. There is also a Byzantine cathedral dating back to the 9th Century.

One morning we rose at 6am to beat the heat and made the climb along the walls from the town to the citadel, 1,300ft above – a stunning, fortified eyrie with spectacular views of the city below and the mountains framing the gulf.




Another Kotor highlight was a trip to Perast, a few miles down the fjord towards the open sea, where we took a boat to an offshore island with room for nothing but a tiny church, Our Lady of the Rocks – built some 400 years ago as a shrine for imperilled mariners.
Back on the mainland, we lunched on fabulous sea bream caught that morning, accompanied by an excellent Montenegrin chardonnay.

Montenegro is small, about the size of Northern Ireland, but the convoluted nature of its landscape and its poor roads mean that even journeys which don’t look very far as the crow flies take a long time. We made two forays into the interior. On our first, we found Skadar Lake, the biggest freshwater expanse in the Balkans, an unspoilt birdwatcher’s paradise ringed by mountains that extends far into Albania, and hired a boat – piloted much of the one of the monasteries that stud Skadar’s islands.

Our second expedition was more daring. Braving the worst of the roads we encountered, we snaked along for hours up into the Durmitor national park – a range of jagged peaks reminiscent of the Dolomites, rising to close to 9,000ft. We stayed overnight in Zabljak, supposedly Montenegro’s most sophisticated mountain resort, which has several pistes and winter ski lifts. There, it has to be said, accommodation and food remain stuck in the Communist past: the place has a long way to go before it can start to compete with resorts elsewhere in eastern Europe, let alone the Alps.


Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/ar...#ixzz18h1gxsJC
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Old December 19th, 2010 #2
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Some pics of Serbian land of Montenegro





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Old December 19th, 2010 #3
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Old December 19th, 2010 #4
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Old December 19th, 2010 #5
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Old December 19th, 2010 #6
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Old December 19th, 2010 #7
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These pictures are medicine administered though my eyes.
Thanks for posting them.
 
Old December 19th, 2010 #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlefieldjohn View Post
These pictures are medicine administered though my eyes.
Thanks for posting them.
Yeah, Crna Gora is beautiful, both the coast and the interior, with the forests rivers lakes and mountains. It is also gypsy free.
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Old December 19th, 2010 #9
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Undeveloped land for the win! Nice pics – keep 'em coming if you may.
 
Old December 20th, 2010 #10
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Old December 20th, 2010 #11
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Old December 20th, 2010 #12
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Good stuff, Serbian. Very scenic. Reminds me a lot of the Appalachians but with thousand year old architechcher.
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Old December 20th, 2010 #13
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Few more pics



















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Old December 20th, 2010 #14
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I'm surprised by the color of the water. It looks more Caribbean than I would have expected.
 
Old December 20th, 2010 #15
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Beautiful pictures! Thank you for this view of another country!
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Old December 21st, 2010 #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Linder View Post
I'm surprised by the color of the water. It looks more Caribbean than I would have expected.
I have never been to the Caribbean but from what I have seen on pics it looks extremely pristine.
Have you been to Italy and their side of the Adriatic? The water on the Dalmatian and Montenegrin side is much cleaner and bluer than on the Italian side, it is also more rocky and has many islands. Italy's Adriatic coast is more low and flat. The landscape and beaches on the ex Yugoslav coast are much nicer and more pristine. Italy's best beaches on the other hand are on its western Mediterranean coast.
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