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Old June 1st, 2013 #22
MikeQuigley
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Man that dude can cut fast. Anyway I have that Baco saw in my bug out bag but I have'nt tried it yet. But by the looks of it that Silky(sp?) is the way to go. I watched nothing but bushcraft stuff on YouTube for about a year and really accumulated alot of stuff from stoves to axes and knives. I've always loved and collected knives and machetes and swords. I think you and I were talking about those Swedish axes a while back. Well hopefully I wont have to live under the tarps that I bought and eat dehydrated food.
 
Old June 27th, 2013 #23
keifer
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10 Things to know about blade steel.
1. There is no BEST blade steel
A knife is a tool. It is designed with a specific set of functions in mind. Steel is the heart of a knife, and it, too, is chosen with certain functions in mind. As such, there is no “best steel.” Asking what is “the best steel” is like asking what is the best medication–you need to know what you’re doing with it first. For example, a big chopping fixed blade, one that can withstand the heavy blows that come with clearing brush or cutting bone, will freckle faster than a red head on a sunny day, but the new ultra stainless steels can’t hold an edge very much at all by comparison. To figure out what is the “best” steel you first need to figure out what you are going to do with it. Is it an EDC blade? A chopper? Is it something you use in and around water? Each of these uses calls for a different steel. For an EDC blade I really like ZDP-189.

http://www.alloutdoor.com/2013/06/24/blade-steel-ten/
 
Old June 27th, 2013 #24
keifer
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Gerber Gator Junior Machete:
Well, its that time of the year where fire restrictions are in place so the Gransfor-Bruks gets left behind on my outings since firewood processing is non existent. But, still there is the need for dealing with brush for setting up camp. I saw this machete by Gerber and since it had a price tag of twenty bucks, give or take, I gave it a try. The conclusion is that it is worth the money. The blade will need some attention depending on what you require. The saw went through 4" trees better than my folder saw. The blade went through the limbs on the tree fairly well. This tool hangs well off the belt and will take pressure off more expensive blades you may have. It is short enough for a hunting pack as well as an addition to yard work. I will be taking this with me this year on a archery hunt for clearing shooting lanes. No doubt there are higher quality machetes out there, I am no real fan of Gerber, but for the price and versatility of this tool, it is worth the money.
 
Old June 28th, 2013 #25
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I've used Silky and Corona for years. Excellent, excellent, excellent products.

These saws use a Japanese, tooth design that is hundreds of years old. A white man did not invent it, before anybody brings that up.

Silky has curved, folding saws like the Corona, as well as fixed saws, and many models with all different types of blades for pruning and woodworking.

Corona offers many models, fixed and folder.

What you see in the video are pruning blades being used on seasoned hardwood. Silky offers blades specifically for use on hardwood which are far more effective than what is demonstrated.

Both marques are money well spent.
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Old July 4th, 2013 #27
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A second test on the Gerber Gator Jr..
After a second outing with this blade I have come to know this tool for an additional advantage over others like it. Size matters, and in this case the lesser length of this particular machete by comparison has some beneficial characteristics. This tool has a sheath with belt loop compatibility like others do but consider this: This tool is not the greater length when comparing to my upper leg bone. What this equates to is that when kneeling down the tip of the sheath does not contact the ground first which would otherwise create a situation where by I would be toppled to one side. A machete of greater length, while in the sheath would be troublesome when doing other basic camp tasks. The same is true for example of some belt axes and tomahawks with handles that are longer than the femur. So when considering a chopping blade to be worn on the belt this consideration plays out more and more for day to day tasks around the camp. With a smaller machete it can be worn all the times and be on the ready, whereas other larger chopping blades are fine while the individual is standing. I never carry axe blades on the belt for the simple reason that in a fall the handle has a tendency to push the blade into the vital areas of the torso.
 
Old July 23rd, 2013 #28
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Knife laws by state.
http://www.knifeup.com/knife-laws/
 
Old July 25th, 2013 #29
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When looking at knives while on a budget specifically folders: Kershaw knives will run you about a hundred bucks for a folder as well as other respectable brands like Benchmade and Spyderco. But also you will find that these same brands will have models in the twenty dollar range. What gives? These inexpensive models of otherwise expensive brands are outsourced and made in china.
 
Old July 29th, 2013 #30
TimothyLeeAdams
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Default Kershaw

Having used knives and other edged weapons for a few decades now, I finally switched from Gerber to Kershaw about 10 years ago. Initially it was because my Gerber quickglide folder's sliding lock showed a tendency to open while being carried as it wore. I replaced it with a nice ($85) Kershaw locking folder in tanto blade style, which I have banged around hard and kept sharp to this day. Recently, needing a smaller knife for times when my larger one might cause problems, I purchased one of Kershaw's 25 dollar locking folders in a smaller but similar blade style, with rubberized grip slabs.

The difference between the two knives is how they open. The cheaper knife uses a finger stud on the back of the knife to allow you to flick it open. It's fast, but not nearly as comfortable or instinctive as the thumb edge opener on the more expensive knife.

For the money I haven't found a better set of knives, despite the cheaper one's being made overseas, so far it's proven to be rugged and well designed. The only thing I don't like is the strange finger maneuvering required to fast-draw and open the thing with the finger stud.

I don't think I would attempt any heavy work with the cheap knife, but as a pocket or backup weapon it seems capable enough for the job.
 
Old July 29th, 2013 #31
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Here is a good source for knife reviews.
 
Old July 29th, 2013 #32
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Default My knife and the air guns we use to train the young ones to be snipers.

Sorry about the air guns is the only photo I have of my favored knife.

Last edited by HardHawk; September 2nd, 2013 at 02:45 AM.
 
Old July 29th, 2013 #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardHawk View Post
Sorry about the air guns is the only photo I have of my favored knife.
That would open up a 55 gallon steel drum or stick through a car door.
 
Old July 29th, 2013 #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keifer View Post
That would open up a 55 gallon steel drum or stick through a car door.
Yes it can. It does not look it but it is titanium blade. and the top air rifle is with the exception of the barrel hand made by my younger brother. With custom teflon coded pellets we make our selves, can go through three empty 50 gallon drums at 30 meters. One at 50 meters. It uses a combination of a gas ram piston as theobens have and also is a small container that when you pull the trigger it sprays a touch of ether behind the pellet. In .177 it drives a 22 grains pellet twice the length of a normal pellet at 2100 fps.

it took us 2 months of trial and error to stabilize the flight of the pellet.
 
Old July 29th, 2013 #35
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It sounds like you have a directive for a new thread in the Outdoor Living section. Airguns. I can talk about BBgun fights with Crossman 760's, but that's about it. I have more listening to do on the subject than talking.
 
Old July 30th, 2013 #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keifer View Post
It sounds like you have a directive for a new thread in the Outdoor Living section. Airguns. I can talk about BBgun fights with Crossman 760's, but that's about it. I have more listening to do on the subject than talking.
That is an idea yes. check air guns at http://www.pyramydair.com/a/Air_guns...air_rifles/155.

You be surprised at their performance and velocities now days. Some of them can compete with .22 rimfire. The reason we chose them for training our young as well our selves is that a break barrel adult rifle will build the same time your arms and upper body and back giving you a rock solid hole of the rifle while shooting standing or seating positions.

Some of them require a 45 to 60 lbs. effort to cock.Shooting an average of 200 pellets per session figure out how much lbs. you press every session. Using left and right arm loading in succession.

Another part few know is that 100 meters with an air gun translate 1000 meters with a sniper firearm. Any way you right not the thread to speak of my hobby here.
 
Old August 30th, 2013 #37
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I am having trouble posting links on my end. Go to wilderness outfitters on you tube and pull up the recent video: Knives JMHO part 1
Top rated information here on making decision for yourself about what you need in the wilderness with regard to blades. This is a must see video. Can someone please post the video. Thanks.
 
Old September 1st, 2013 #38
M.N. Dalvez
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For cutting bush and other chopping tasks on the farm, I always had good results from a golok-style machete.

The weight is very much toward the front end of the blade, which makes for a good, strong chop.

And they're usually made of low-carbon and mild steel, which (as you all know) is much easier to sharpen than stainless steel.

If you need a wicked edge, a golok can take a wicked edge; but they don't need to be wickedly sharp to do most chopping and slicing tasks due to the weighting of the blade.

It does require more oiling and needs to be covered when not in use. But hey, a good tool needs to be maintained. That always was true, and always will be.

Also, the use of mild steel keeps the price down. So a golok is usually much cheaper than a comparable-quality machete of another type.

(Actually, I much prefer a low carbon or mild steel blades for most tasks. But that's just my personal preference, I guess - all this carbon steel stuff wasn't so readily available when I was younger and when I did the majority of my farm work.)

Last edited by M.N. Dalvez; September 1st, 2013 at 10:15 AM.
 
Old September 1st, 2013 #39
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Default COMPLIMENTS OF BROTHER kEIFER


I hope this is the right one as I could not find one named as part 1.
 
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